Local Ork's Scratchbuild Extravaganza in "Sculpting a lot more than usual"

Hmm... noone want to play game?

Let's change rules then. To keep thing fresh, I will (or try) make models that were guessed... obviously with some time gap. And no telling before I will finish them

How that sounds?

Grotesques and Wracks?

Oh boy, long time without updates...

Anyway for some time I've decides to stop working on DE models and toy with my SpOrks (I "need" to make entierly new army, Wazdakka Bikers, because they are A LOT better than standard green tide). I'm currently casting front and back wheels (I have 50 (!) Deff Kopters, some would be Bikes, some Buggies [my current models are big and not OT] and some will end as Killer Kans) and during that process... well, it looks like I accidently created rock-hard (literally, it dulled my dermel drill! however it appears it MAY be bend when warmed, unlike resin+carbon fibre), highly cost effective (I'm economist), heavy (good thing for terrain), poliurethan-sillicone composite material (I have "chemical" background too).

Anyway... for some time I would show You more terrain pieces (especially because I finnaly got lots of plasticard replacement, it's helluva expensive and nonexistant on Polish market). For example... "twisted" pillars. I have model dipped in sillicone already, I guess tomorrow I would have few ready models (maybe painted too).

This "smart thingy" is also perfect oppourtunity to make casting tutorial since shapes would be quite big and easy to follow. Perfect warmup*!


*You definetely don't want to make my mistake and cast freaking tank [glued hull, without turret and tracks] as Your first model, in "one piece" mold (and on top of that, I've used WRONG sillicone, one that should be used for "flat" molds). Especially if You want it to be empty "shell".

Also, Xel drilled hole in my belly for that tutorial, so when he get back he will have nice surprise.


[edit]
Oh and it also appears to be miscast-proof with little care about pouring.

Well, apart from small flashing on one side and fact it slightly bend (I've fixed that) during extraction from mold, I guess it's perfect, at least in technical sense (take that FailCast*).

"Bob the Splinter Cannon gunner" for scale purposes (pillar is about 85mm high)

It also took a little longer that I've expected, but I guess I'm ready to make tutorial. Need to gather more info & vocabulary (I'm "good" at chemistry, but not quite in different language)


*Ok, shape is really easy, but it still may give some problems.
Also I've checked effectiveness of my new material and I get over 215% of models from same ammount of resin and considering that "magic component" is nearly free... Yep, it come really cheap.

Ok, while I still (don't) work over SpOrks and casting tutorial (it's too complex, probably would be good for part 2 tho) I've experimented a little with oil clay (it's good for prototypes).

It's not even halfway ready at this point, but I wonder what do You think?
Dark Kin meet Alien? Daemonettes strike back?

[edit]
Huh... after some work I must say that I really like that effect. It's dark. It's soft and liquid. It's "organic", but I can make it more "mechanic" without any problem.


And, most important, it's stylised so I can hide my lack of talent because "dad iz ART, WAAAAAGH!"

Hello!

I've figured out (well, totally steal that idea but that doesn't matter ) how to make interesting floors and decks

Spoiler:

Here how its done:
Draw the lines

Cut like that

Glue (Teal lines indicate where paper rectangle go, as "end piece")


This obviously works out for cardboard and plasticard.

Here are templates:




Also, experiment. Those patterns come with simple rearangment of pieces:




Oh, as for casting tutorial... well, I royally *** up. However I may make it during... working with Raider.

[edit]
picture for scale

basically tiles are 6cm long and 3cm wide

I think that you might be insane..in a good way

I think last variation may be even better suited for Chick-o-plane

Funny thing happened to me today.

I've got my Nerd Cap today so I thought "hey, I think it's good idea to disassemble my airbrush and clean it since I have magnifying glasses!". So I dissasembled it and then, during assembling... I screwed up hard. Literally. I overtwisted thread on the noozle. Basically, I killed my airbrush.



Good thing I was born with Flesh Gauntlet. Anyway my Airbrush not only work (again), but work *better*. For some *cough* unknown reason (I know now why now ) it have wider range of paint flow - I can spray really thin lines and also *drown* models in paint (it can suck more than without needle before "rekonstruktiun"). So... I think I'm gonna make some airbrush tutorials soon

I'm very curious for the airbrush tutorials. You could also drop by in my other thread on the topic of airbrushes again as I have some unsolved questions lying around.

Cheers

Ok, I'll drop by Dogmar.

Speak of the devil, I managed to totally Wrack my airbrush. Right now it looks like Grotesque with Paintfier gun

I always have problem with it. On higher paint flow it "spitted" paint. Actually it always was "not as cool as on videos" even with smaller settings too. No 6-y pin ups for me (I have "train on what You like" approach, it works.)

I tried different paints (including Vallejo Air and alcohol based laquer), painting with thick and dilluted paint, painting over different primers/paints, in different conditions (moist/normal/dry + hot/normal/cold air, in any possible combination)...

Problem lie in fact that my "cheap bastard" have (well, had ) pulsating air flow (like any machine with piston or piston-like mechanism). With "more generous" paint flow, I was able to hear "spf-spf-spf-spf-spf" when spraying on "max". I needed something that would stabilize pressure. I needed... air tank.

So I made one from 5 liter plastic bottle and old plastic hose (I didn't like idea of cutting original hose in case it wouldn't work/matter).
Works wonders, looks kinda funny tho.

Spoiler:

Pics soon (also comparision with tank-less painting with same Vallejo Air paint) since it's waaaaaaay after 2 AM in my country. Time for nap.

I've got a golden ticket
I've got a golden twinkle in my eye



Milliput (superfine) is AWESOME. Got one package of it yesterday, started with Haemonculus face today. It's different from GS (mostly because require oil lube rather than water, I use vaseline anyway since it's "pro" choice. And it's like (real) clay, rather than boubble gummy GS) and while I had some initial problems...

YEEEEEEAAAAAAH!

Also...

I'm utter moron. Despite having few ocasions to but stuff I still don't have parts for (detachable) air tank so I can't make comparision shots. But I'm restocked with paints so that's plus for me.

Also, sorry for turning this topic into blog lol.

[edit]

I had to use magnifying glass to took picture but it's still blurry due to small size of head...



I've took advantage of Milli beeing white by mixing it with small drops of paint to help me see details (akin to using polygroups in 3D modeling). It would be white if I would use "pure" Milliput.

Dork cap also helped

Well... I decided what I'll give my Haemonculus for GAR's contest:

Ancient, Venom Blade + CCW (4 attacks wounding on 2+ , like better Scissorhand), liquifier and "something else" like WWP/Casket or "random decoration crap". I need to add 2 arms for last two but but that would be piece of cake. I think I will cover boobs (apart from face I did only main shape). Metal wire attached to head will turn in gigant fleshy-tentacly-cyber-hairy braid.
I will sculpt toga around pipe-tackles.

And I hope to get her ready till end of week.

[edit]

I made this lil ugly list... more like list of models I would like to make for GAR's challenge (every slot + transport/vehicle. Small models, big models, MC, Beasts... Probably can cover most of his ideas )
but also quite... playable I hope. Comments about units in purple.

Spoiler:

Local_Ork wrote:

Also...

I'm utter moron.

The old "dumbass in distress" hilarity occured yet AGAIN.

Where to begin... it seems that mixing milliput with paint, smearing whole thing in vaseline (milliput dillute with water before it soldify so I have to use oil based lube) and then drowning damned thing for several hour in alcohol is DUMB. Basically, I have puzzles made from white parts that fell of from colorful parts and for love of god there is no way I can attach them.

I just love learning hard way. Next time use freaking soap.

Good thing is that I've found parts of my Talos thingy.



Now if You would ask, why I need to find those, 3 month long house renovation due to switching from cold water + heater to warm water from pipe. Oh yeah.

Problem with that one is... I've changed my mind aout that a little. Sexy spiky legs stays, as do idea of tormented chick inside.

A quick question - have you finished your Venom project?
If so I'd be happy to see some pictures of the finished design, as I am planning also to do my own.

What interests me the most is if you hollowed out the hull and how did you manage to make a resin cast of it (hollowed out or not? had problems with thickness of the model? did you cut it in half and cast the parts separately?) Any feedback is appreciated.

Oh, another Pole! Pozdrawiam i wesołych świąt.

wilku wrote:

A quick question - have you finished your Venom project?
If so I'd be happy to see some pictures of the finished design, as I am planning also to do my own.

Sadly, no. Current venom model looks more "sleek" (and this is exactly what microscopic jet should look like) while mine... like flying barrel. Also, I kinda... dislike Venom gamewise. Don't get me wrong, it's good unit (one of few NOT AT vehicles I would consider good) but just don't fit my concept of army (Raider with 2 SC Trueborn fit).

wilku wrote:

What interests me the most is if you hollowed out the hull and how did you manage to make a resin cast of it (hollowed out or not? had problems with thickness of the model? did you cut it in half and cast the parts separately?) Any feedback is appreciated.

To be honest there are noumerous ways to cast models. I would advice casting in as few pieces as possible, so "full hull". But that mean You use a lot more resin (a little more get expensive) AND model would be heavy.

.

Unless You cheat and are good in that.

Look at following picture.



Grey is obviously rubber mold. Orange and brown are resin. Blue is "core".

First You need to choose what You would stick inside Your cast ("core"). Basically it should be lightweight and don't soak resin.

• Paper is out, since it would act as sponge.
  
  
• Tin foil ball is ok, but I would secure it with wood glue after forming desired shape.
  
  
• Foams (like styrofoam) also are good, however they are made from similiar material to resin (poliurethane) so they will dissolve unless You prime them with wood glue.

I would pick tin foil since it would be easy to shape.

Your "core" should be slightly smaller than model.

When You'll get Your core ready, insert it into mold.

Then fill half or so mold (brown part of resin) so core would "stuck". Then, fill rest.

Anyway You should get nice and lightweight model.

Fell free to ask any additional questions.

Ok, I've started sculpting my contest entry once again.



Sadly it's best photo, adjusted in Photoshop. Treated with Devlan Mud.
It looks different than old one, more... youthful and femine, as well as more elven. Old one look... old, more witchy-bitchy. Maybe that was good thing actually? After all, she is Ancient Haemonculus...

Blue neck is made from cotton bud pipe so You can judge the size. Head is about 5.5 mm high and 3.5-4 wide
(I think GW use weird scale, it's higher than 28mm in some cases, in some the opposite. Even in one army. Pff, amateurs ).

That's some pretty fine sculpting mate! I can't believe the detail you have on something so small. This face looks absolutely great L_O!

thanks for information on the casting - it will still take some time before I get to that anyway, but it's an idea worth considering. I'll let you all know if I figure out something myself.

Thank You Gob. Holding my thumbs for You wilku.

I've managed to find pretty cool concept art that would fit my Haemonculus idea.
From Abomination: The Nemesis Project. Pretty sweet old game IF You'll get used to some annoying things. Played it few months ago (first run was "quickie" on easy, second was... painful. Even for me.) and rediscovered it during my *cough* recent research.




Which are NOT seen in the game, since they were made for 2d enemy models (final game had 3d enemies on 2d boards)

Massive FAIL. (2d looked cool actually)

Which is full of win. How else You can name a balldress made from severed heads and hands. Which seems to be alive. And on fire, freaking blue fire. Wow.

Nice work here my friend. I really like what you've done with that female Ancient, the pose looks alot more dangerous than the original and hats off on sculpting a female head so well. Question about the milliput, how dudable is it for a one off sculpt? Or are you just using it to make a master to be casted? Keep up the good work, I cant wait to see the final result.

I think this one would be just sculpted and painted.

I nearly always sculpt around armature (metal skeleton covered in Super Glue) and most time I made base anatomy from cheap plumber putty (which happen to cost only 2/5 of Milliput price for it's weight) with addition to plastic details too easy to break (like blades) and add some things that I don't want to sculpt (in this case metal pipes).

So I guess it would be more sturdy than most models actually (except metal ones) due to fact it take best traits of used materials. Kinda like minis with metal arms and resin bodies. Or recent Tantalus model (...floor from etched brass. It's awesome.).

As for Milliput itself, I think it's pretty hard material. It's like any other putty I know, except GS. GS is rubber-like even after soldering, this is like rock.

HOWEVER I think I've discovered something. By mixing Milliput and plumber putty (You can do that, just make sure to mix epoxy with epoxy etc. , in other cases results may vary from good to terrible) I think I've made GS substitute.
Cheap GS substitute.

At least it work like "boubble-gum" GW, self smoothing itself (milliput don't do that, so it's perfect for sharp details but also is harder to smooth it).

Ok guys, I need "help".

I'm finally working over painter in Flash. I need Your opinions.

This is test file (don't mind poop quality and crappy colours) with painting divided into sections that You can paint.



Plume (paintable)
Bones (fixed colour)
Shoulder spikes (fixed colour)
General armour (paintable)
Additional armour colour (paintable)
Tabbard (paintable)
Body Suit (paintable)
Eyes and Gemstones (paintable)

I plan to make separate layer for highlights (so they can have different colour).

Now, should I divide white areas into separate elements (helmet and pads)? Also, should I divide "general" armour (torso, arms legs)?

[edit]
Ok, that was dumb question. I think I just go with multiple parts and "fill all" button.